Tips & Tricks...
home Running Gear
  • Brakes
    • Rob Bell offers up the options here, from OE to AP.
    • Rob tells us why big is not always best in this article.
    • Andy 'Scarlet Fever' Phillips offers his thoughts on the braking effect here.
    • And also from Rob, an article about brake fade.
    • Erik covers the pad and disc options on his site here.
    • to cut down on brake servo movement, Erik fitted this bracket.
    • Rob Bell also covers brake servo movement on his web site here.
    • Erik shows how to fit Mike Satur's 280mm conversion kit here.
    • TIP !! when checking your rear brake pads for wear, check the inside pad, this wears at a greater rate than the outer pad. The OE inner pad also has a metal strip attached to it that rubs on the brake disc emitting a squeal when the pads are low.
    • Jerry Herbert from the SWMGF'rs has another tip regarding rear brake caliper seizure (you need to be a SWMGF member to view the thread).
       
  • Brake discs
    • CJJ shows us how he removed the disc retaining screws that nearly always snap over on the MG-Rover.org forum.
       
  • Handbrake
    • A lot of people ask how to adjust the handbrake, refer to the handbrake section on this page.
       
  • Wheels and tyres
  • Locking wheel nuts
    • There has been a spate of the McGard type locking wheel nuts failing. A shorter lock nut, possibly having a 24212 part number, has been fitted for whatever reason, this 'bottoms out' on the stud, over a few weeks it effectively pushes the end of the lock nut off, have a look at this post on the MG-Rover.org forum which shows a failed lock nut in the lower picture. I was told by the supplier of a set that failed on my TF that the McGard catalogue gave the incorrect number for the F/TF.

        For the record, the correct information for the McGard locking wheel nuts is as follows;
      • McGard part number - 82518
      • MGR part number - XPT000175ACC
      • McGard part number - 24157 can also be fitted, but these lack the anti tamper sleeve that the 82518 nuts have. There is no MGR part number for these.

        The MG-Rover.org online shop sells these for £19.99 (May 2007), but ignore the picture of them, its the wrong one.
        This has been discussed in depth in this thread on the MG-Rover.org forum.
         
  • Wheel bearings
    • Dieter has this page showing how to replace the rear wheel bearing.
       
  • Suspension
    • Andy Phillips covers the hydragas design used on the F here on MG-Rover.org.
    • Dieter has this page on how to build your own hydragas pump - TAKE CARE !!!
    • Erik lists some suspension options on his English Fantasy web site.
    • the poly bush upgrade for the F is covered on Erik's site here.
    • Tony Thompson covers fitting of poly bushes on his site here.
    • a common issue that gets over looked is the grease nipple on each of the front upper suspension arms. Mark Leonard took a photo identifying its location on the MG-Rover.org forum, its at the end of the rusty bent screwdriver !!.
    • Dieter has a page on a shock absorber upgrade for the MGF here.
    • Dieter even covers the various hydragas pumps available here.
    • Looking for a garage that can pump up your hydragas suspension ?, then try The Hydragas Register.
    • Jerry Herbert, 'MG TF nut', a member on the SWMGF boards, reminds us to grease our nipples!!!, and a follow up thread showing a modification to the nipple for better access with the grease gun (you need to be a SWMGF member to view the treads).
    • Debs has put this thread together on the MGF Register forum, listing the standard suspension settings and Sport Pack 1 (SP1) suspension settings for a TF. The same data is tabulated below.

  • Suspension settings - TF
    Suspension element Standard suspension Sports suspension
    Front Wheel Alignment - Toe Out per side 0 degrees +/- 6 minutes
    0 degrees +/- 0.1 degrees
    0 mm +/- 0.665 mm (15" rims)
    0 mm +/- 0.709 mm (16" rims)
    0 degrees +/- 6 mins
    0 degrees +/- 0.1 degs


    Front Wheel Camber - Negative 0 degrees 30 mins +/- 30 mins
    0.5 degrees +/- 0.5 degrees
    3.315 mm +/- 0.315 mm
    0 degrees +/- 05 mins
    0 degrees +/- 0.08 degs

    Front Wheel Castor - Positive 4 degrees 50 mins +/- 1 degree
    4.83 degrees +/- 1 degree
    29.98 mm +/- 6.71 mm
    5 degrees 28 mins +/- 1 deg
    5.47 degrees +/- 1 degree

    King Pin Inclination 11 degrees 40 minutes
    11.71 degrees
    78.71mm
    11 degs 40 minutes
    11.67 degs +/-1 deg

    Rear Wheel Alignment - Toe In per side 0 degrees 15 min =/- 6 mins
    0.25 degrees +/- 0.1 degree
    1.662 mm +/- 0.67 mm (15" rims)
    1.772 mm +/- 0.71 mm (16" rims)
    0 degrees 30 mins =/- 6 mins
    0.5 degrees +/- 0.1 deg


    Rear Wheel Camber - Negative 1 degree +/- 30 mins
    1 degree +/- 0.5 degree
    6.71 mm +/- 0.315 mm
    1 degree 33 mins +/- 30 mins
    1.55 degrees + / - 0.5 degree


     
  • Ride height - MGF
    • Paul at DotComoff has this article on how to check the ride height on an MGF
    • Andy Phillips discusses ride height and hydragas here on MG-Rover.org
    • Greg Hiltons MGF FAQ has a section on ride height here.
    • Broon shows his method for pumping up the hydragas system on an F.
       
  • Gear selection mechanism
    • Dieter has a repair for a broken gear selector ball joint here.
    • Tony Thompson has a DIY fix for a split rear gear selector gaiter here.
    • Fitting the Mike Satur Slick Shift kit can be found on Tony Thompson's site here, and on Erik's site here.
       
  • Stepspeed / Steptronic / CVT gearbox
    • Here is a PDF file giving a full description of the CVT gear box works. This PDF file charts how the gearbox works in driving situations.
      Thanks to TipperMG who posted this thread on the MG-Rover.org forum
       

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Page last modified on:08, December, 2013
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