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Engine
- The
K series
- Rob Bells site
covers most aspects of the engine here.
- More K series
information here
courtesy of Dieter.
- Tony Thompson
tells us about cam belt tensioner failure here.
- and if you feel
like a good read, try this
article on The UNOFFICIAL
Austin-Rover Web Resource web site, well worth the read.
- Gaining
access
- DotComoff shows
you how to gain access to the engine by removing the engine access
cover
here.
- Dieter shows a
method of engine removal here.
- Distributor
and Rotor arm
- Dieter gives the
low down on distributor cap and rotor arm replacement here,
includes part numbers also.
- Rob Bell also
covers replacing the distributor cap and rotor arm
here on his web site.
- Spark
plugs
- The DotComoff site
shows how to replace the spark plugs
here.
- Iain 'Broon' Brown
also has
this guide on his web site.
- What spark plugs
should I use?. A selection would be NGK PFR6N-11, NGK Iridium BKR6EIX
or Denso IK20
- The
gearbox
- Dieter's site
gives you the low down on the PG1 gearbox here.
- Again Dieter shows
how to fill the manual PG1 gearbox here.
- Andy Phillips made
a
great post on the MG-Rover.org
forum, discussing the differences between the Mike Satur SSK, the
Techspeed and the Moss variants of gear change mechanisms.
- The
clutch
- Dieter shows you
how to change the clutch here.
- most of us are
aware of the potential seizure of the clutch arm, well Jerry Herbert
from the SWMGF forums came up with
this ingenious lubrication system,
simple yet effective (you need to be a SWMGF member to view the
thread).
- CJJ shows how to
fit a modified clutch release arm with
this thread on the MG-Rover.org
forum.
- Starter
motor
- Removal
and Replacement
- Dieter removes
and replaces the starter motor here.
- Broon shows us
how he removed his starter motor here
on his web site.
- Solenoid
- Dieter
explains how to clean the starter solenoid here.
- Throttle
bodies
- Sticking
throttlecan be caused by several
things;
- a plastic 48mm
throttle body (TB), known as a cause, replace with either an alloy 48mm
TB or the larger 52mm alloy TB as fitted to the MGF Trophy models. See here
for instructions on replacement.
- a badly routed
throttle cable. The cable may be kinked causing the problem. Trace the
route of the cable and straighten the cable.
- a dry cable.
remove the cable from the throttle body, hold it vertically and let
3in1 oil drip down the inner cable and into casing.
- if all else
fails, replace the throttle cable. I had a stiff pedal, wasn't the
pedal assembly, wasn't the cam on the throttle body, and the cable
seemed to be fine, as did the cable routing. Finally replaced the cable
and got rid of the stiff pedal. The part number for the throttle cable
is SBB000280.
- more
information from Andy Phillips in a post on MG-Rover.org
here.
- Andy Phillips
discusses throttle bodies in this
post on the MG-Rover.org forum
- Sudden
high rev tick over
- Andy Phillips
discusses possible cause and cure on the F Register forum
here.
- Dieter also
discusses and gives possible cures here
on his web site.
- Engine
coolant temperature sensor
- A faulty coolant
temperature sensor can cause problems with starting the engine when its
hot. Read this
thread on MG-Rover.org posted by
yellowduke and all will be revealed.
- Dieter shows how
to change a defective sensor in this
page of his web site.
- Iain "The Broon"
Brown produced
this thread showing how to
replace the sensor on the MG-Rover.org forum.
- Improving
engine BHP
- Andy 'Scarlet
Fever' Phillips made an excellent post on the MG-Rover.org
- more of Andy's
thoughts on the subject here.
- and another one
from the Big Yin here.
- Andy gives his
thoughts on electrical BHP improvements via the ECU
here on the F Register forum.
- multiple throttle
bodies or MTB's are discussed by Andy
here.
- Erik has a great
page on air filters and their impact on BHP here.
- masses of engine
tuning information
from Erik's English Fantasy web site.
- PTP's Sport 165
kit is covered here
by Erik, and fitting instructions here.
- Alternator
- A screeching noise
from the engine, which changes with engine rpm, and usually occurs in
damp conditions, indicates a slack alternator belt. Dieter has this
page which shows how to adjust
the belt, it is for a car fitted with A/C, but the basics can be used
to adjust a non A/C car. The belt is tensioned by adjusting bolt item
15 on this
page
from Dieters EPC.
- Rev
limiter
- Is your engine rev
limiter cutting in at about 5500rpm?, then it could be that the
multiplug for crank position sensor is not connected, have a look at this
YouTube video.
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