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Exterior
- Car and hood care
- Paul Lathwell at DotComoff shares his views on car care
here.
- he also explains the general problems with the hood
here.
- Paul discusses the pro's and con's of hard top ownership
here, including how to fitment.
- Dieter has
this page on hood reproofing.
- Wipers
- Mike Satur's windscreen wiper linkage
- Broon shows how to install it
here.
- Dieter has some pictures
here.
- Wiper ball joint.
- Dieter shows how to repair the ball joint
here.
- There is an improved wiper mechanism repair kit available,
the part number is DKT000010, and consists of the link bars
ball joints, some rubber shims and instructions. These kits
are selling for around £16 from
Xpart or
Rimmers. The kit is mentioned in the above link.
- Hepburn on the MG-Rover.org forum has
this excellent tip for a repair to the driver side wiper
linkage -
- Park the wipers at the 1 o'clock position to ensure best
access to wiper mechanism under bonnet. Pull apart the ball
joint (if not already apart). Tip: set wipers going and turn
off ignition to obtain correct parking position.
- Grind off the "rivet like" lip securing the top half
of the ball joint to the mechanism plate and remove it. A small
Dremmel type tool works well for this, albeit slowly.
- Drill a 5mm hole through the top half of the ball joint,
in such a way you can put an M4 bolt through it and the mechanism
plate for re-attachment.
- Do as above to the bottom half of the ball joint, being
careful to maintain the same or similar angle. This part will
have to be done in situ.
- Take a 40 or 50mm M4 bolt, place a large (20mm) M4 washer
on it and feed the bolt upwards through the bottom half of the
ball joint.
- Place the upper half of the ball joint back into place
and push the above bolt through it and the wiper mechanism plate.
Tip: Locate the upper half of the ball joint back into the wiper
mechanism plate before inserting the bolt through it.
- Place another 20mm M4 washer on the bolt, followed by
an M4 nut. Tighten quite firmly. This should result in the ball
joint and wiper mechanism plate being "sandwiched" by the washers.
- Test wipers (with water on screen) and ensure there is
no "judder" on the driver side wiper. If there is then tighten
the "sandwich" further and test again. Repeat until any "judder"
is gone.
- Once satisfied with your repair apply a "nylon" locking
nut on top of the 1st nut and tighten securely. Tip: M4 nylon
nuts can be obtained from model shops.
- Finally, vacuum away the grinding dust from the area
below the wiper mechanism to ensure it does not leave "rust"
stains after a few days.
- A final tip - keep a spare nut & bolt "sandwich" in the
car together with the tools to fit it, just in case the fitted
one breaks. That way you can always fit it in situ in the event
of it breaking again. I've not needed to yet, but best be prepared
eh?
- Another tip from Hepburn obtained from a nice AA man. That
is to trap a layer of rubber glove (the type used by mechanics)
between the ball joint halves. It won't last long but may be
enough to get you home...
-
one more solution from Dr Dave/Disco Dave over on the MG-Rover
forum.
- Single wiper arm
- fancy a single wiper arm?, Rob Bell has had a conversion
done,
read all about it on the F Register forum.
- Wind stops
- Dieter has
this page on wind stops, including dimensions for the OE MGR
wind stop posts.
- Rob Bell did the infamous 'blue wig' test for wind stops on
his web site
here.
- Adrianvvc from the MGF Register forums gives this tip for fitting
the MGR windstop without using a template to an MG F -
- Remove the plastic rear finishing bulkhead only 3 screws
and release from clips.
- Then remove metal strip 4 screws, keep rear 2 only.
- Refit metal strip with 3 screws temporary under bulkhead
to locate position of front 2 holes, drill a pilot hole through
these and bulkhead.
- Replace metal strip and bulkhead holes will line up for
the 2 windstop brackets !
- The replace and two holes will line
- Hainsie from SWMGF has put together
this great MS Word document (880kb) showing how to replace the
mesh in the MG OE wind stop. The thread covering this on SWMGF's
forum is
here (you need to be a SWMGF member to view the thread)
- Window regulator
- Dieter has a page on a broken door window bracket
here.
- the parts for the door window regulator are shown on Dieters
EPC
page.
- Glass
- Tony Thompson explains how to adjust the door glass in his web
site
here.
- Dieter shows how to adjust the door glass and cheater
here.
- Steve gives this tip for scratches on the windscreen -
"To remove the usual arc caused by a defective wiper blade, use
jewellers rouge. This is a very fine powder that should be mixed
with a liquid glass polish to make a paste, apply using plenty of
elbow grease !. You should finish up with little or no sign of the
scratch (depending on how deep it was) and without any windscreen
distortion."
- Cheater
- Here's a great tip from Jerry 'MGtfnut' Herbert on how to make
the cheater fit......
"The cheater is held on by 2 screws at the top against the door
frame, and an adjustment at the bottom of the window runner "A".
I took the whole lot out because there was 2/3 mm of movement of
the cheater, when the window runner was fixed. I found that the
cheater bit is held onto the runner "U" shaped channel with 2 small
machine screws. These had come loose, and the detents locating it
had become distorted. With a bit of careful squeezing in a vice,
I managed to close up the slack in the metal runner making the detent
positive, and replaced the machine screws using Loctite.
I then carefully bent the top edge of the door frame, with protective
strips of metal and "Mole" grips, inwards slightly.
When it was all replaced the cheater fitted perfectly, so much so
that I can take the plastic tube dodge out!!"
- Garvin made these
covers to fit over the slot left in the cheater after he'd fitted
power mirrors.
- Doors
- Headlights
- High level brake light
- BPR160 from the MG-Rover.org forum explains how to replace a
bulb in the F's high level brake light - "Undo the 2 screws which
hold the HLBL in and remove the connector. Undo the 5 Phillips screws
and gently pull the two halves apart. Bulbs are 286's."
- Wing mirrors
- Nice page
here from Dieter showing the procedure for stripping a wing
mirror.
- and
another page from Dieter for the repair of the wing mirror casing.
- Aerodynamics
- Rob Bell has
this page on modifying the rear side air intake ducts.
- Again from Rob Bell's site,
this page covers the TF 200 HPD hybrid, and the aerodynamics
that were added to it.
- Petrol cap
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