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Engine
- The K series
- Rob Bells site covers most aspects of the engine
here.
- More K series information
here courtesy of Dieter.
- Tony Thompson tells us about cam belt tensioner failure
here.
- and if you feel like a good read, try
this article on The UNOFFICIAL Austin-Rover Web Resource web
site, well worth the read.
- Gaining access
- DotComoff shows you how to gain access to the engine by removing
the engine access cover
here.
- Dieter shows a method of engine removal
here.
- Distributor and Rotor arm
- Dieter gives the low down on distributor cap and rotor arm replacement
here, includes part numbers also.
- Rob Bell also covers replacing the distributor cap and rotor
arm
here on his web site.
- Spark plugs
- The DotComoff site shows how to replace the spark plugs
here.
- Iain 'Broon' Brown also
has this guide on his web site.
- What spark plugs should I use?. A selection would be NGK PFR6N-11,
NGK Iridium BKR6EIX or Denso IK20
- The gearbox
- Dieter's site gives you the low down on the PG1 gearbox
here.
- Again Dieter shows how to fill the manual PG1 gearbox
here.
- Andy Phillips made
a great post on the MG-Rover.org forum, discussing the differences
between the Mike Satur SSK, the Techspeed and the Moss variants
of gear change mechanisms.
- The clutch
- Dieter shows you how to change the clutch
here.
- most of us are aware of the potential seizure of the clutch
arm, well Jerry Herbert from the SWMGF forums came up with
this ingenious lubrication system, simple yet effective (you
need to be a SWMGF member to view the thread).
- CJJ shows how to fit a modified clutch release arm
with this thread on the MG-Rover.org forum.
- Starter motor
- Removal and Replacement
- Dieter removes and replaces the starter motor
here.
- Broon shows us how he removed his starter motor
here on his web site.
- Solenoid
- Dieter explains how to clean the starter solenoid
here.
- Throttle bodies
- Sticking throttlecan be caused by several things;
- a plastic 48mm throttle body (TB), known as a cause, replace
with either an alloy 48mm TB or the larger 52mm alloy TB as
fitted to the MGF Trophy models. See
here for instructions on replacement.
- a badly routed throttle cable. The cable may be kinked causing
the problem. Trace the route of the cable and straighten the
cable.
- a dry cable. remove the cable from the throttle body, hold
it vertically and let 3in1 oil drip down the inner cable and
into casing.
- if all else fails, replace the throttle cable. I had a stiff
pedal, wasn't the pedal assembly, wasn't the cam on the throttle
body, and the cable seemed to be fine, as did the cable routing.
Finally replaced the cable and got rid of the stiff pedal. The
part number for the throttle cable is SBB000280.
- more information from Andy Phillips in a post on MG-Rover.org
here.
- Andy Phillips discusses throttle bodies in
this post on the MG-Rover.org forum
- Sudden high rev tick over
- Andy Phillips discusses possible cause and cure on the F Register
forum
here.
- Dieter also discusses and gives possible cures
here on his web site.
- Engine coolant temperature sensor
- A faulty coolant temperature sensor can cause problems with
starting the engine when its hot. Read
this thread on MG-Rover.org posted by yellowduke and all will
be revealed.
- Dieter shows how to change a defective sensor in
this page of his web site.
- Iain "The Broon" Brown
produced this thread showing how to replace the sensor on the
MG-Rover.org forum.
- Improving engine BHP
- Andy 'Scarlet Fever' Phillips made an excellent post on the
MG-Rover.org
- more of Andy's thoughts on the subject
here.
- and another one from the Big Yin
here.
- Andy gives his thoughts on electrical BHP improvements via the
ECU
here on the F Register forum.
- multiple throttle bodies or MTB's are discussed by Andy
here.
- Erik has a great page on air filters and their impact on BHP
here.
- masses of engine tuning
information from Erik's English Fantasy web site.
- PTP's Sport 165 kit is covered
here by Erik, and fitting instructions
here.
- Alternator
- A screeching noise from the engine, which changes with engine
rpm, and usually occurs in damp conditions, indicates a slack alternator
belt. Dieter has
this page which shows how to adjust the belt, it is for a car
fitted with A/C, but the basics can be used to adjust a non A/C
car. The belt is tensioned by adjusting bolt item 15 on
this
page from Dieters EPC.
- Rev limiter
- Is your engine rev limiter cutting in at about 5500rpm?, then
it could be that the multiplug for crank position sensor is not
connected, have a look at
this YouTube video.
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