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Engine
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The K series
- Rob Bells site covers most aspects of the engine here.
- More K series information here courtesy of Dieter.
- Tony Thompson tells us about cam belt tensioner failure here.
- and if you feel like a good read, try this
article on The UNOFFICIAL Austin-Rover Web Resource web site, well
worth the read.
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Gaining access
- DotComoff shows you how to gain access to the engine by removing the
engine access cover
here.
- Dieter shows a method of engine removal here.
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Distributor and Rotor arm
- Dieter gives the low down on distributor cap and rotor arm
replacement here, includes part
numbers also.
- Rob Bell also covers replacing the distributor cap and rotor arm
here on his web site.
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Spark plugs
- The DotComoff site shows how to replace the spark plugs
here.
- Iain 'Broon' Brown also has this guide on his web
site.
- What spark plugs should I use?. A selection would be NGK PFR6N-11,
NGK Iridium BKR6EIX or Denso IK20
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The gearbox
- Dieter's site gives you the low down on the PG1 gearbox here.
- Again Dieter shows how to fill the manual PG1 gearbox here.
- Andy Phillips made a
great post on the MG-Rover.org forum, discussing the differences
between the Mike Satur SSK, the Techspeed and the Moss variants of gear
change mechanisms.
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The clutch
- Dieter shows you how to change the clutch here.
- most of us are aware of the potential seizure of the clutch arm, well
Jerry Herbert from the SWMGF forums came up with
this ingenious lubrication system, simple yet effective (you need
to be a SWMGF member to view the thread).
- CJJ shows how to fit a modified clutch release arm with this
thread on the MG-Rover.org forum.
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Starter motor
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Removal and Replacement
- Dieter removes and replaces the starter motor here.
- Broon shows us how he removed his starter motor here on his
web site.
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Solenoid
- Dieter explains how to clean the starter solenoid here.
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Throttle bodies
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Sticking throttlecan be caused by several things;
- a plastic 48mm throttle body (TB), known as a cause, replace with
either an alloy 48mm TB or the larger 52mm alloy TB as fitted to the
MGF Trophy models. See here for
instructions on replacement.
- a badly routed throttle cable. The cable may be kinked causing
the problem. Trace the route of the cable and straighten the cable.
- a dry cable. remove the cable from the throttle body, hold it
vertically and let 3in1 oil drip down the inner cable and into
casing.
- if all else fails, replace the throttle cable. I had a stiff
pedal, wasn't the pedal assembly, wasn't the cam on the throttle
body, and the cable seemed to be fine, as did the cable routing.
Finally replaced the cable and got rid of the stiff pedal. The part
number for the throttle cable is SBB000280.
- more information from Andy Phillips in a post on MG-Rover.org
here.
- Andy Phillips discusses throttle bodies in this
post on the MG-Rover.org forum
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Sudden high rev tick over
- Andy Phillips discusses possible cause and cure on the F Register
forum
here.
- Dieter also discusses and gives possible cures here on his web
site.
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Engine coolant temperature sensor
- A faulty coolant temperature sensor can cause problems with starting
the engine when its hot. Read this thread on
MG-Rover.org posted by yellowduke and all will be revealed.
- Dieter shows how to change a defective sensor in this page of his
web site.
- Iain "The Broon" Brown produced this
thread showing how to replace the sensor on the MG-Rover.org
forum.
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Improving engine BHP
- Andy 'Scarlet Fever' Phillips made an excellent post on the
MG-Rover.org
- more of Andy's thoughts on the subject here.
- and another one from the Big Yin here.
- Andy gives his thoughts on electrical BHP improvements via the ECU
here on the F Register forum.
- multiple throttle bodies or MTB's are discussed by Andy
here.
- Erik has a great page on air filters and their impact on BHP
here.
- masses of engine tuning information from Erik's
English Fantasy web site.
- PTP's Sport 165 kit is covered here by Erik, and
fitting instructions here.
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Alternator
- A screeching noise from the engine, which changes with engine rpm,
and usually occurs in damp conditions, indicates a slack alternator belt.
Dieter has this page
which shows how to adjust the belt, it is for a car fitted with A/C, but
the basics can be used to adjust a non A/C car. The belt is tensioned by
adjusting bolt item 15 on this page from Dieters EPC.
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Rev limiter
- Is your engine rev limiter cutting in at about 5500rpm?, then it
could be that the multiplug for crank position sensor is not connected,
have a look at this YouTube video.
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