 | Using a multimeter
 | CJJ
posted this great thread on the MG-Rover.org forum, explaining the
basics of using a multimeter, he also explains ways of checking the
battery condition.
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| Wiring diagrams
| Dieter as a list of links to wiring diagrams on his web site
here.
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| Interior lighting
| Iain Ross changed to LED's
here |
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| Broken wiring loom
This is a common fault, a couple of wires in the loom by the
near side boot hinge have broken, usual signs are lights not working,
double locking will not work. Sites with fixes :-
| Broon's answer to the problem is
here. |
| TIP !! I do not tie wrap the loom back to the bottom clip
on the boot hinge as I believe this is a cause of the problem. It puts
excessive bending on the loom each time the boot lid is opened/closed.
Removal of the clip allows greater freedom to the loom.
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| Horn failure
| Tony Thompson gives us the low down on how to check for this fault
here.
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| Brake lights always on
| Tony Thompson's site shows us how to cure this very popular fault
here. |
| Dieter also covers the problem on his site
here. |
| Andy 'Scarlet Fever' Phillips gives his fix for this problem
here and
here on MG-Rover.org. |
| .....and Andy explains how the problem can be caused
here. |
|
Another view from Gregg Hiltons original MGF FAQ site. |
| Neil.R on the MG-Rover.org forum
posted this step by step guide to adjusting the brake light switch
on the TF.
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|
| Wiring loom behind the radio
| There are a lot of sharp edges at the back of the radio, and many
people have posted on forums complaining that fuses keep blowing after
they have had the radio out. Tony Thompson gives some sound advice to
avoid the blowing your fuse
here. |
| Have a look at this photograph
it clearly shows the sharp metal edge that the loom rubs against.
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|
| Heater fan
If your Heater fan does not work properly, it might be the resistor
pack. This is located around the heater box area under the passenger
side dashboard. The glove box needs to be removed to access it. The
resistor pack can be either replaced or repaired.
| Tony Thompson has a section on the resistor pack on his site
here. |
| A
DIY fix for the resistor pack from Tony26 on the MG-Rover.org
forum. |
| Dave Morris who runs the
SWMGF,
posted this article on the MG-Rover.org forum showing how he
repaired his resistor pack with ceramic resistors. |
|
| Headlights
|
| Sidelights
| hardmonkeys on the MG-Rover.org forum had non working rear side
lights, this was his final solution -
"turned out the problem was the connector under the centre
console....powering the instrumental lights, which somehow
powers the rear lights and fogs..oh and the number plate lights, the
connector had come off his clip, and straining the wires...all I did
was relieve the strain, and pop him back on his clip...simple"
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|
| Fog lights
| Morten, who goes by the name MGFNorway on the MG-Rover.org forum,
posted this thread describing how he altered the fog light wiring
loom from a Rover 75 to fit his F.
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|
| Wipers
| Dieter shows a repair for the wiper motor
here. |
| Sometimes when the windscreen wipers are used on 04 TF's the
drivers side window winds down on its own, the answer is to fit a
470µF capacitor, the instructions can be found
here, its a German site, but the link puts it thru Google's
language translator, not quite perfect, but will probably be
sufficient, and mildly entertaining.
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|
| Alarm
| Testing
 | The alarm system can be tested by following the procedure
described below:
- Ensure doors, bonnet and the boot lid are closed.
- Sit in the driver’s seat and close the door.
NOTE: The next three actions must be carried out within 2 seconds.
- Depress the driver’s doorsill button.
- Switch the ignition on, off and on again.
- Raise the driver’s doorsill button.
If the test mode has been entered correctly, the horns will give
a short beep and the engine immobilisation buzzer will sound.
Opening either door, the bonnet or the boot lid, or operating the
driver’s doorsill button, will cause the alarm LED to illuminate for
approximately one second. If the LED does not illuminate, there is a
system fault.
The volumetric sensor can also be tested while in test mode. To test
the volumetric sensor, press the unlock button on the remote handset
several times. The alarm LED will illuminate for approximately 1
second each time movement is detected in the vehicle.
The test mode is cancelled by switching the ignition OFF.
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| Alarm is always going off
| Check for the following :
 |
is there a mobile phone in the car? |
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Is it parked near a microwave oven? |
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Is it parked near automatic doors (including garage door
openers)? |
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Is it parked near a mobile phone mast? |
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Is there a taxi rank close by? |
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Is there an ambulance or fire station close by? |
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Is there a hospital close by? |
|
| The micro switches in the door locks may be faulty.
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| Remote Handset
| Battery replacement
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|
Prise the handset apart from the key ring end, try not to damage
the seal. |
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|
Remove the battery, take care not to touch the circuit board. |
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Press and hold each button in turn for at least 5 seconds |
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|
Fit a new battery (CR2032) with + side up. |
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Reassemble the handset. |
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|
Unlock the car using then key and operate the handset lock
button four times to re-sync the handset. |
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| Handset synchronisation
|
|
With the car unlocked, hold the handset close to the car and
operate either button four times in quick succession, or until
the door locks operate if the car is fitted with central
locking. |
|
| Range
|
|
Stephan Gribney's
Ultimate MG
site has a section on how to increase the blipper range in his
FAQ section.
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|
| SRS system
| SRS dash light
| If the SRS light stays on, follow
this information on the original MGF FAQ web site. |
| Another possibility is the plug at the pretensioner end, CJJ
posted this thread explaining, with pictures, how he fixed it.
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| Instrumentation
| Clock
| If your clock is loosing time, or stopped altogether, try the IT
supports favourite reply - "have you tried turning it off and on
again", simply remove the electrical connector from the back of the
clock (pull out the centre air vent to access), or remove the fuse, leave it for 5
minutes, then reconnect.
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| Temperature gauge
| Chris P, on the MG-Rover.org Forum, had a problem were his
temperature gauge reading would drop to zero every time he pressed
the clutch pedal. His answer to the problem can be found in
this thread, complete with photographs. |
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