Dieter gives a full explanation
here
about the Electronic Power Assisted Steering system.
Another
description of EPAS from Gregg Hiltons MGF FAQ web site.
My steering is turning left by itself, is there anything I can do
?
yes there is, have a look at
this page on Rob Bells site on how to reset the EPAS torque sensor
another great page
here on steering sensor adjustment from Burtle off the
MG-Rover.org forum.
What are HID headlights ?
Note - before you consider fitting a HID kit,
please read this page from Department for Transport as they may be
illegal.
this explanation from Steve 'SHARKYMGF' White from MG-Rover.org ;
"HID stands for High Intensity Discharge. As you know normal bulbs
have a filament suspended in a gas. The gas used (Halogen, Xenon etc)
and the wattage that the filament operate at both effect the
brightness.
A HID bulb is filled with Xenon gas but it has no filament. It has an
electrode at each end and when a voltage of 20,000 volt is passed
through it an arc is struck between the electrodes. The arc heats the
enclosed metallic salts to vaporization point. Once vaporization of
the salts has occurred the HID bulb produces its full light output.
This 'warm up' process take about 4 seconds.
To generate a stable voltage that high, the bulbs are connected to a
ballast unit (or inverter). The power drawn by the ballast unit is
only 35 Watts, so less than a conventional bulb, but the amount of
light produced is considerably more due to the higher voltage powering
the bulbs. Bulbs are also available in different 'temperatures'. The
temperature they operate at changes the colour they produce. I am sure
you have noticed some cars with HID fitted as standard have white,
blue or even purple lights, this is down to the temperature of bulb
they have fitted.
The conversion basically involves replacing you normal bulbs with the
HID bulbs. You then plug the ballast unit into the bulb. Some kits
then simply allow you to plug the bulb connector on the car harness
into the ballast unit, whereas some of the cheaper kits don't have
this ability so there is a bit more work to be done. Conversion kits
can cost anything from £100-200 for the 'unbranded' ones to £250-350
for the name branded ones sold by PIAA, Hella, Phillips etc etc."
My radio has stopped working, which fuse should I look for? Here are some pictures showing the passenger compartment and under
bonnet fuse box layouts......
the following pictures relate to pre VIN4D620548 VIN numbers (pre
MY04)
passenger compartment fuse box
(located
under the steering wheel behind a panel located by two twist screws)
the following pictures relate to the passenger compartment fuse
box for VIN numbers from VIN4D620548 onward
all the relays in the newer fuse box are identical, all being part
number YWB000440.
Pictures and information courtesy of Steve White (sharkymgf on the
MG-Rover.org forum)
under bonnet fuse box,
located at the back right hand side, looking from the front. (this is
common, as far as I'm aware, to all model years)
My heater is always blowing hot air, what can I do?
Stu Dickens on the MG-Rover.org forum had this problem, this is
how he fixed it -
"It normally takes about a minute for the air to go cool, If it
doesn't go cool it could be a loose cable, but it's most likely that
the valve is not shutting off fully and it only takes a small opening
to allow the air coming through to stay fairly warm.
I lived with it for months and it takes only about 15 mins to fix once
you understand the problem.
If your heater problem is the same as mine was (it most likely is)
have a look at the attached jpg and I’ll try to explain what to do.
(click to enlarge)
(The grey struts are the VHS stiffening frame, you probably won't have
these)
1)Remove the driver side access panel and you can see the heater cable
coming down and the clip (which is just a push fit).
2)Remove the clip (1) by just pressing the rear of it. It comes out
easy enough.
3)Rotate your heater control to the cold position.
4) It’s hard to see from the photo but the fixing (3) has two hands
coming from it a bit like a clock (one is smaller than the other) The
larger or hour hand is the part that slots into the frame (4)
The smaller hand is the one your interested in. When the heater is on
cold, the smaller hand should have rotated clockwise up against the
mechanical stop (2)
If it’s not, it’s not shutting the warm feed off.
With the cable disconnected you can rotate the hands so the small hand
does hit the stop.
Once it’s in the correct position, reconnect the cable with the clamp
and hey presto its done.
You will find now the cable will not allow the mechanical part (4) to
travel to its fully on position with the heater knob on max which I
first thought would be a problem with the hot air, but it’s not, the
valve only needs to be open a little to allow plenty of hot air
through as you well know.
It sounds complicated and is a little hard to explain but in reality
it only took me 15mins at most."
How do I remove the third or high level brake light?
this is courtesy of Perry Gogas (PERRY-MGTF on MG-Rover.org's
forum). Original thread
can be found here.
You open the boot
On the left hand side and inside the boot lid there is a rubber
grommet where the 3rd stop light cables are coming out
Disconnect the cables
Push them inside the rubber grommet and in the boot lid.
You may take the grommet out or not
Use a long screw driver and try to locate the 3rd stop light left plug as you cannot reach
the right hand side one from that space.
Push the plug with the screw driver so that the left side of the
brake light pops out.
Then it is easy to pull the right side out too.
Notice that when you unseal the stoplight the led's are placed facing the
opposite way!!! so that the connectors run on the front side of the
brake light.
